B&H’s version is, in my opinion, the perfect American diner borscht, all watery and light before a heavy whitefish melt. Veselka, a Ukranian restaurant, offers seasonal varieties of the soup ...

If anyone's leg should have been broken, it was that cook's, thanks to the miserable excuse for borscht he'd just prepared. That lousy bowl of borscht was at the root of my problem that night.