as we stepped gingerly out of our Zodiac and into the fizzing surf at Stromness Bay, South Georgia. I picked a careful route across the grey-pebble beach, eyeing warily the growling fur seals and ...

Her destination was a cove in Stromness Bay which became known appropriately as Leith Harbour because the company building the station was Christian Salvesen's of Leith, on the outskirts of Edinburgh.