A transparent pane of kombu (seaweed) topped a delicate slice of mackerel and ball of rice. He pushed the plate with the saba sashimi towards me, as though he were letting me in on a secret. Even with ...

Stay tuned. Must-orders: Anago (sea eel) nigiri sushi with eel sauce and sansho powder; shima saba (pickled mackerel) sashimi with shiso oil and homegrown yuzu; live sea urchin; A5 Wagyu nigiri.

The sashimi moriawase (HK$480 for the smaller portion ... plus a mound of small but smooth and rich uni. The saba sushi (HK$60) was slices of marinated mackerel over pressed, nicely vinegared ...