Kay Plunkett-Hogge’s kow soi is a creamy Thai recipe featuring two types of egg noodle (cooked and fried), plus the Bangkok-born chef’s secret to perfect curry paste. Finally, Jason Wang’s ...

But be sure to order the thick, velvety kow soi gai as well. It’s a nice creamy balance to all the spice. There's mild, medium, and spicy som tum (and then an option with no spice at all).