“Döner” means “rotating” in Turkish. It was the waves of immigrants from Turkey to Germany in the 1960s and ’70s who developed döner kebabs, combining the pide, meats, chopped-up veggies and the ...

Shawarma spins on our sidewalks. Al Pastor pirouettes over our curbs. Freeways corkscrew in concrete cyclones. Los Angeles is nothing if not a trompo town. Döner, the majestic progenitor of ...